Washington — Whidbey Island

The ferry from Vancouver Island navigated through fog and mist to deposit us in Washington state. All we had to do was show our U.S. passport twice, answer questions about where we'd been and how long, what we were carrying, and open our fridge for inspection, to a border officer wearing a black uniform, black boots, and black gloves.

We drove down Whidbey Island to visit an old Minneapolis friend, Ann G., who now lives in Coupeville, a tiny gem of a place. The village is cute, located on a hillside, with shops, restaurants, and a mussel farm down in the water at the cove. The local cuisine is seafood, including just-caught mussels, clams, and salmon. We had outstanding dinners at Christopher's (recommended) — I had the seafood stew, Ann had ravioli with prawns (under $20 each).

One evening we drove farther down the island to an old movie theater that was showing a documentary, "The Real Dirt on farmer John," the funny true story of a misfit Midwestern Scandinavian farmer who floundered for decades before finding the right niche in the world for him and his farm. Another day we parked at the dock and took the ferry over to Port Townsend, Wash., a gem of a place, with restored old buildings, a used book store, and (naturally) restaurants. We had seafood at Fins and pronounced it delicious. (Recommended).

The weather was sunny and pleasant, and at night the sky was so clear we could see the Milky way. Blackberries grow wild in the northwest — imagine not having to plant, cultivate, water, and worry about winter protection! When Menominee took me for walks, I always kept an eye out for blackberry bushes, then picked only the big, plump, ripe and juicy berries, the ones just waiting to be picked and popped into your mouth. (Recomended)

An island is insulated from the hubbub of the mainland. Most people seldom have a reason to come to Whidbey Island, which makes it sparsely populated, relaxed, and friendly. I'm still smiling about the friendliness of the happy locals there. (I want to go back.)

And yet, it isn't all heavenly, even on Whidbery Island.

The island lacks major culture -- professional live theater and music, museums, galleries, colleges and universities -- as well as access to large stores and a major airport. Seattle is 60 miles and one ferry crossing away, so it's like living in Hinkley and yearning for the attractions of the Twin Cities (and taking a ferry where the 35W bridge used to be).

It isn't all peace and quiet on Whidbey. A naval air station is located at the northern tip of the island, and navy planes swoop low over the island taking off and landing.

Our visit featured ideal weather -- sunny and warm -- but the island also experiences clouds, fog, rain, some snow, and plenty of wind.

Whidbey Island's only source of fresh water is from wells, and the water is full of rust, so people don't drink it or wash clothes in it.

Port Townsend is lovely to visit on foot, as we did, but if you bring a vehicle, you've got a parking problem.

We happened to be there in blackberry season. The rest of the year, they're just thorny bushes.